Monday of this week saw the harvest full moon. A tradition on Gabriola Island is for the local drummers to gather at Drumbeg Provincial Park shortly before sunset and to “drum in the full moon”. They do this each full moon throughout the summer and it can be quite a stirring event. I decided to photograph both the drummers and the rising moon which can be quite a challenge, while the moon hovers low in the sky many photographers opt for long exposures to get the effect they want, but are then very disappointed with the results, not realizing how rapidly the moon actually moves, especially in the early stages of it’s journey above the horizon.
Nikon D3, 105mm f2.8 lens, 1/20th @ f16, Fill flash at -2/3 stop to illuminate drummers, ISO 200
Mounted on Gitzo tripod with Arca Swiss ballhead
It is also very easy for the brightness of the moon to really fool the camera’s metering system, likewise if you continuing photographing until after darkness has set in the amount of the unlit part of your scene can render autoexposure totally useless. The beauty of digital of course is bracket, experiment, and read your histogram. Most people will overexpose the moon at their first attempt and it appears in the photo as a bright blob.
It is difficult to give clear instructions for shooting lunar images as there are many variables, including the brightness of ambient light, if any, and the angle from the earth at which you are shooting. I usually make a couple of test shots with the camera set at aperture priority automatic, and dial in around 3 to 4 stops of underexposure, making sure I note the exposure the camera gives me. Then I take a look at the image on the camera’s screen and check out the histogram. Now I switch to maual exposure and fre away, regularly checking the image and histogram as the moon rises above the horizon.
A good starting point will be around 1/250th of a second, f16, and ISO 200. Do not be tempted to turn the ISO up - the moon is a bright object set against a dark background and you don’t want to introduce excessive noise into the dark areas.
Remember that long exposures will not work, given more than a couple of seconds you will be surprised how far the moon actually moves, especially as it is rising. Use a tripod, you cannot hand hold these shots, nad use a cable release if you have one. Use the longest lens you have otherwise the moon is going to appear more like a large star. If you are having difficulty focusing simply set your lens at infinity - I am pretty sure the moon is somewhere out at that setting!
A ‘correctly’ exposed moon shot retaining full detail in the craters
Nikon D3, 600mm lens with 1.7 x converter, 125th @ f16, ISO 200 mounted on Gitzo Tripod with Wimberley head tightly locked down and with a cable release to reduce vibration to a minimum









